Easter is a Christian festival and in all Christian countries the purpose is the same: to celebrate the resurrection of Jesus Christ. However, every country also keeps its own traditions. In Britain Easter bunnies hide chocolate eggs, in the Czech Republic, men hit girls’ bums with a willow stick and they are even rewarded for it, in Spain you are swallowed by sombre atmopshere and back in the mediaeval times….
Ku Klux Klan fill the streets
I had a chance to experience Easter celebrations in a town of Salamanca. I remember I was at home and suddenly heard rumble of drums coming from the street. Gradually drums were joined by trumpets and trombones playing a slow sad melody. It lured me to leave home and discover what was going on.
What I had in front of my eyes brought me back to medieval times. I saw processions of figures clad in long tunics with a tip in a shape of a cone. This covered their whole body, leaving a little space only for the eyes. They slowly marched the streets, barefoot, with shackles and chains on their feet and arms, carrying massive wooden crosses on their shoulders. In this way they showed their penance.
The heavy scent of frankincense was in the air and the historical environment of the city of Salamanca enhanced the atmosphere. The last stroke of drums was heard and the procession paused. These mysterious figures were only within my arms reach and it made me step back. One of them looked straight at me. His or her piercing dark Spanish eyes met mine. I remember it gave me goose bumps all over my body.
From blues to joy
The last day of the celebrations brought a change in mood and atmosphere in the city – Jesus is resurrected! Music is more cheerful, people uncover their faces and black colour is replaced with white. 15 brotherhoods of Salamanca, including the elderly, young as well as children, start their long march culminating in Plaza Mayor square, a pride of the city.
Brotherhood of Jesus Christ, a friend of Children
Golden baroque balconies of the Square are hung with banners and crowds of people are squeezed between the columns only to see the famous “El Encuentro” when Jesus Christ meets St. Mary. Members of the brotherhoods carry their big statues for hours high above their heads. But the happiness, which the final meeting in the Square provokes, is probably worth it.
“El Encuentro”
Keeping traditions alive
Spain belongs to the ten most religious countries in Europe so its Easter celebrations have not lost their true essence. The nature of the celebrations also differs throughout the country. Those in the south in Andalusia are famous for its glamour whereas in the community of Castile and León, where Salamanca is situated, they bring much more sombre and solemn experience.
I am not a Christian myself and I was observing the processions with my mouth open but with little personal understanding. However, I had an impression that people were aware of the purpose of these happenings (perhaps except that little girl biting drum sticks) and stood up for their beliefs.
It kind of differed from my latest experience at home when a group of kids from streets rang our doorbell and sung Easter carols but instead of painted eggs they wanted some cash.
Easter Market in Old Town Square, Prague
Anyway, Happy Easter!
Lots of happy chocolate eggs eating and I wish to my girl fellows in the Czech Republic that their bums did not turn too blue this year.
Space for daydreaming 